Fri, Jan 12 - A Change in Plans

 

 

5 AM got up; it looks as if the bad weather continues, but we’ll see!    We are meeting David and Hilary for the drive back to the upper camp/restaurant area where we were yesterday.   Today I’m going to put on my Leech Socks which I made for our Borneo trip years ago.  I also made some for Hilary and Bob has the ones he bought and I copied back then as I’m too cheap to spend $40 for simple cotton socks!  They consist of long fine-mesh light-colored cotton socks that one puts over regular socks and pant legs before putting on shoes.   The idea is that the leech (less than 1” when un-inflated) can be seen against the light-colored fabric sliding up one’s leg and be can removed before latching on and becoming engorged (hope you’re not reading this while eating!) (We should have had them on yesterday though luckily only Bob got a leech and the rest of us were spared.)

Leeches are not a big deal and don’t hurt at all, but the anti-coagulant that they inject causes a lot of bleeding and the ensuing mess is difficult to clean up, particularly when traveling and in a basic hotel.

 

We got ready and met Hilary at the table overlooking the hotel grounds and contemplated another day in the drizzle.   David came over and said he had been talking with Tien and they thought it would be a good idea to Change the Plan!   We are going to pack up and leave, drive south and arrive at Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP area a day earlier than planned and later make another stop at a new area not currently on the schedule.    We all thought that was a great idea!  We packed up and even got the laundry we had sent in yesterday all folded and Dry!   I never thought this basic hotel could manage that – I figured we would get clean, but sodden, clothes returned.

 

We set off at 6:30 AM heading east until we reached a new north-south freeway and drove south for several hours, passing through miles of rice paddies being planted.   It was very picturesque until you realized how agonizing it would be to spend the day leaning over with one’s feet and arms in the water planting rice seedlings!  Vietnam and Thailand are the number one and two rice exporters in the world and from the extent of the paddies we saw today, we can believe it.  The rice is surrounded by small villages often dominated by a very large cathedrals that must cost the peasants a pretty penny.  Buddhist shrines and temple are scattered through the paddies.                                                                                                                                                                                             

In one small bustling town our driver stopped at a coffee shop for our breakfast.   Coffee shops Only sell coffee, so Tien dashed across the street and came back with a bag of baguettes and some rounds of Laughing Cow cheese.   We turned down David’s offer of adding Vegemite to our bread and enjoyed our snack along with the chocolatey strong coffee.   

Flooded rices paddies

Huge fish nets 

We continued down the coast turning off at one point to go to the beach to see if there were any birds there.   The South China Sea stretched out before us.  The beach was pretty trashy, but whether it was from locals or washed up we couldn’t tell.  We did see large pikes of oyster, clam and green-lipped mussel shells.    

Birding on the side of a busy road

Beautiful new bridge that we had just crossed

Walking down to the beach

After a few hours we were getting hungry and Tien directed Bom to drive to a seafood restaurant he had taken a group to three months ago; the beach front and sidewalks were being paved with marble slabs and the restaurant had disappeared!   I can’t imagine a more slippery surface for a humid water front, but anyway our lunch spot was no more.   We drove on and Tien was getting frustrated as he couldn’t find an appropriate café.  The towns are loaded with car, appliance, & beauty shops. But very few groceries or cafes.    Finally we pulled into one and were escorted into a back room festooned with fancy woven light fixtures and painted wallpaper and were served a great lunch!   The best spring rolls we have had so far, delicious whole steamed shrimp, great fried rice with crisp veggies, bok Choi and garlic, and then a platter of French-fried squid, and that was more than enough!

Colorful boats along the coast

Fantastic fried rice and boiled shrimp

We reached the very narrow middle of the country which is about 50 miles wide from the sea to Laos,  and drove in the direction of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, an UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for having many caves formed on the limestone hills, including the largest in the world.   We, of course, are not going to the caves but in search of some special birds. 

 

We pulled into the Phong Nha Lake House Resort where we are staying for two nights…OMG, what a lovely place!   We have Villa 8, right on the lake, with a huge bathroom, complete with shower stall with multi ways of spraying yourself, And a large outdoor stone tub surrounded by a stony wall!

Part of my (HH) beautiful room

Dining outside on the hotel patio

The hotel like many places is still largely decorated for Christmas 

Katy’s stone tub!

I immediately grabbed a shower and we headed back up a confusing pathway and many steps to the restaurant for dinner.    We weren’t very hungry and fortunately there was an a la carte menu so Bob and I just split a pizza and beer.   Back to blog and bed.